I went as soon as Bali was available to tourists again; this is what it's like now.
"I lost some of my English," our buggy driver Gede joked as he guided us around the twisting roads of the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, the sparkling Indian Ocean below us in azure hues. And I lost some Bahasa Indonesia," I said.
We lost two years of communication practice when Bali was dordle quarantined during the COVID-19 outbreak. Despite being apart from their home for so long, the residents of the so-called Island of Gods have lost none of their trademark sweetness or warm friendliness. When I returned to this oasis of ancient temples, I found the villagers to be even more kind and hospitable than before.
Many people who depend on tourism to support their families have had a tough couple of years. But you couldn't tell by looking at the employees at this resort. I didn't have to look for grins on their faces; their eyes themselves beamed with happiness. While resort staff do wear masks in public as required by law, they often defer to the customers' wishes on the matter. With so many private villas and high-end hotel rooms already equipped with plunge pools, there's simply no need for them. The restriction against wearing masks in public has lately been relaxed in other contexts, such as in outdoor eating establishments. It seems like the epidemic is virtually history on this island.
Staff built the brand-new open-air venue Telu during COVID using salvaged materials from around the resort, adding to the feeling of being in the great outdoors by providing activities like beachside dining at Sundara and zero-waste cocktail classes where guests learn to make Made's Margarita using local Kintamani tangerines.
My 135-minute Baru detox treatment at the resort's brand-new Healing Village Spa included dry brushing, a clay wrap, a facial, a rainbow LED chromotherapy Vichy shower, and the resort's famed deep Balinese massage, all as the wind blew in. In the private Longevity Garden, my husband and I felt like we had stumbled into a verdant, ancient secret as we began our self-directed routine of sauna, mud mask, infrared beds, and ice tub immersion.
After two years away, I've finally made it back to the island that makes me happy, and it appears to have grown even more authentically Balinese in its respite from Westerners. Ibu Atik, the cultural ambassador for Four Seasons, introduced me to the elegant, thousand-year-old Balinese alphabet Aksara Bali by having me practice writing my name on paper before etching it into a lontar palm leaf and filling in the lines with hazelnut-based ink. Walking out of the cave onto Padang Padang Beach, I was delighted to hear the chime of a gamelan and see a Hindu ritual in action, complete with the releasing of two ducks into the placid, blue waters of the ocean (to the delight of children).